Coupled Short-Ig Wave Dunamics Over A Shallow Barrier Reef

Abstract

Reef barriers play a major role many coral islands, by sheltering the lagoon from the ocean wave energy and then creating a unique habitat for many species. This filtering action becomes increasingly crucial for ecosystems health and shoreline protection in the context of climate change and related sea level rise, degradation of coral systems and modification of wave conditions. A strong research effort has therefore been engaged by the coastal oceanographers community for the last two decades to improve our knowledge and prediction skills of wave dynamics over coral reef systems. A widely reported observation is the importance of infragravity waves (IG) over wave-driven reef systems, whether fringing or barrier reefs. IG are primarily forced by groups in the incoming short-wave (SW) field, either by the release of bound waves or the breakpoint oscillations (Bertin et al. 2018). IG period typically ranges between 30 and 200s, which makes them prone to excite or interact with natural seiching modes in reef-lagoon systems often ranging in the Very Low Frequency (VLF) band. Further research efforts are now necessary to better understand the interaction between long IG/VLF oscillations and SW field. In particular, long waves are expected to play a dynamic depth-filtering role on SW energy, acting as long carrier wave able to promote the propagation of larger SW groups by IG/VLF crests. More generally, the spectral energy transfers over the reef crest-flat system and their relative importance w.r.t. frictional and breaking dissipation are not fully understood over the complete range of surface waves.

The aim of the present study is to analyse and to discuss a series of field observations performed on the barrier reef of Maupiti Island, French Polynesia. A particular focus is placed on the interaction between SW and IG wave fields across the reef crest-flat system.