Hybrid Forecast System Of Overtopping With Infragravity Wave Included


  • HENRY ALFARO-CHAVARRÍA Unidad de Ingeniería Marítima, de Ríos y de Estuarios (IMARES) University of Costa Rica, Costa Rica
  • GABRIEL DÍAZ-HERNANDEZ Environmental Hydraulic Institute, University of Cantabria, Spain
  • GEORGES GOVAERE-VICARIOLI Unidad de Ingeniería Marítima, de Ríos y de Estuarios (IMARES) University of Costa Rica, Costa Rica




Caldera, infragravity waves, overtopping forecast, XBeach


The overtopping over a structure is related to the run up, which in turn depends mainly on the wave and the physical characteristics of the structure. However, it is known that there are other oscillations of longer periods (infragravity waves) which, when the incident wave is of the swell type and the product of storms, become relevant because they have a direct influence on the calculation of the overtopping. The aim of this study was to evaluate the non-hydrostatic version of the XBeach model using a one-dimensional scheme to simulate overtopping events. The model was forced in three different ways: free surface data collected in field, wave parameters representing by Hs and Tp, and directional energy spectra generated by an operational wave and infragravitational wave system (SO3). The main results show that XBeach is able to transfer wave energy at low frequencies along the beach profile. In addition, the XBeach model can be coupled with the directional spectra of energy from the operational system to propagate them into the swash zone and generate overtopping in advance. This could potentially serve as an operational overtopping tool to assist the relevant authorities in managing this issue.




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